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FASHION FROM WASTE The touch and feel of old clothes that we own brings back the memory of an experience. There are stories attached to all of them. It's not only recycling cloth but also recycling memories. By Namrata Narula How many of us can claim that we have never bought something, only to realise we have made a bad choice and never worn that item ever. It has been hidden at the back of our wardrobe and comes out a guilty reminder, a few years later, still with labels attached. It is estimated that more than one million tonnes of textiles are thrown away every year in the UK alone, creating more and more landfills. In India, our traditional culture does not support such wastefulness, but consumerism related to clothes is very high in the urban areas - and the throw away habit is bound to follow. What happens to textile waste? When you throw biodegradable material into the landfill (such as cotton and wool in the case of clothing), they are unable to rot due to lack of oxygen and light. So they remain there producing methane instead. Landfill sites pose a threat to local ground water supplies. Every time it rains, water drains through all the rubbish, and picks up chemicals and hazardous materials from whatever is in the landfill site. This includes chemicals used in clothing and textiles such as dyes and bleaches. The water collects at the bottom of the landfill, often in large amounts and can become up to 200 times as toxic as raw sewage. Transforming Waste - the concept of “Jugaad” How does fabric used in one form take on another form - for instance - from a sari to a skirt or a curtain? What can be done with waste in the form of fabrics termed as outdated, old and is usually tossed out? "New-Improved" is a brand that aims at changing our rigid ideas about fashion, consumerism, and reusability. Apart from turning old designer bags, accessories, home furnishings and clothing into new products, the brand also offers customised products for people who are interested in restoring their old clothes which they are attached to for whatever reason. The thought behind the brand "New-Improved" stems from the age old habit of recycling, preserving and jugaad (a Hindi word that literally means getting things done with whatever is available - without waiting for prescribed materials or equipment.) To Indians, the word “Jugaad” suggests innovation. Many accessories and items of clothing can be made by re-using existing fibres and textiles, rather than by using new raw materials (such as cotton, wool, and synthetic fibres). This saves energy and reduces pollution caused during the manufacturing processes like dyeing, washing and scouring.
The material becomes the inspiration for each product. The design process is always unique and spontaneous. The final product is a handcrafted product where no two creations look alike. According to Namrata Narula, the founder of “New-Improved”: "I am very fascinated by how material changes itself over time. It ages, giving rise to amazing colours and textures and different canvases for me, which I put together to make a new product". Since she started in July 2010, people have been sending their old clothes to her from different parts of the country. And if people are enthusiastic, she likes to involve them in the design process of their product. Namrata encourages her clients who have had those precious fabrics for many years and not knowing what to do with them, to recycle the materials into something which they can use in and around their surroundings: the “new and improved” upcycled piece then brings about its own energy in their lives. For instance, a mother gave Namrata some of her old clothes and her daughter's school uniforms from 25 years back. Namrata upcycled those into designer bags which her client sentimentally gifted back to her daughter. When clients come to her, Namrata will have a conversation with them, which she says is a very valuable part of her work. Each fabric has a story of many years weaved into it; for many, it is like visiting old memories. The fabric then becomes a persona for Namrata and it gains an importance with an identity of its own. "I am very interested in the movement of deconstruction in fashion. So my process starts with a careful deconstruction of the clothing, separating the different elements and putting them back together. There is no hard and fast process. I am very fluid with the way I work and I try to keep it as spontaneous as I can," explains Namrata while arranging her freshly upcycled button clutch. Consumerism and fashion change at the blink of an eye and people are never satisfied with what they have. Retail therapy makes us buy more and more while old clothes are piled on. As a creative enterprise, “New-Improved” is a pioneer in these times, striving to explore and learn the value of products while aiming for zero waste. – Third World Network Features. -ends-
The above article is reproduced from Bhoomi, Volume 3, Issue 1, January-March 2012. When reproducing this feature, please credit Third World Network Features and (if applicable) the cooperating magazine or agency involved in the article, and give the byline. Please send us cuttings. And if reproduced on the internet, please send the web link where the article appears to twnet@po.jaring.my. 3810/12
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